Yes. Therefore, use the gloss. Why is it easier to carry a person while spinning than not spinning? You will have to bring it right down to the tile once again. Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, Buffing compounds, sanding materials, and techniques for that super-high final shine. There are always some little imperfections and spots. site design / logo © 2020 Stack Exchange Inc; user contributions licensed under cc by-sa. (Finishing Forum) (sorry for such beginner questions, haven't tried this stuff before). Where do you get them (I am near North Houston)? put occluders into the product to dull the finish making it less transparent and softer. What "paint" did you use? The Abralon series is foam backed and go up to 4000 grit (nothing between 2000 and 4000). Will the Mirka 4000 grit be that much better? I have been doing a few projects lately with high-gloss polyurethane finishes. Now I guess I'll buff the whole thing down with the steel wool and then apply the satin finish and see how that looks tomorrow. Also, can someone clarify "some practice and a very good brush to get a good finish." How can I blend sanded cedar into the surrounding darker wood with a polyurethane finish? If you aren't seeing the fine scratches, you don't have a good enough light on your work. Then there is the Mirka Abranet/Abralon series of abrasives. After the final coat had cured for a couple of days, I started the wet sand process. If I go up to 2000 grit (or 4000 if I can find it) and then I go with Meguires (or comparable 3M polishes), does anyone have a recommendation for which particular Meguires products (or 3M) to use? So 60 grit (starting level) may require 3-4 paper changes for a SINGLE pass. It was much better than any sprayed or brushed finish. You first might want to try to take the gloss down a bit using very fine steel wool, rubbing with the grain in long strokes. If this is 3-5 planks you probably have to have the damaged planks pulled (professional floor installer comes over and cuts out the planks) and new planks dropped in. Lacquer dries fast enough to minimize dust settling and sticking, though it takes some practice and a very good brush to get a good finish. Worst comes to worst there is still plenty of stripper left in that can. The surface is definately scratched but I worried if I needed more passes for more teeth for adhesion. Also, wet the floor down before you spray. This should give you a table that is like a mirror. The final coats keep having minor bubble spots and/or lint/dust spots. Can I just final sand with 1200 to diffuse the light and take off the absolute minimum amount of material? Polyurethane should cure for two weeks to a month after the last coat is applied. By the looks of it, you haven't started with the proper grit or you didn't change your materials out enough...do NOT move on to the next level until all the finish is gone. I have been doing a few projects lately with high-gloss polyurethane finishes. I went to their website and saw that the Abranet series abrasives are mesh and go up to 2000 grit. My rule is "uniformly dull" between coats. Also, do any of you use wax on top of your final finish? After 2 months my home was still uninhabitable. Applying new finish to bamboo is a real BEAR. So I decided to keep sanding until it was even and I found that I had sanded off all the sheen of all three samples of polyurethane. I suggest you grab some more of the lower grit material and "keep on keeping on". Any areas that show up still shiny mean you haven't knocked them down enough and the finer grits will never touch them. It has held up well because it is essentially a water-based gym floor finish that can be sprayed. Sanding grits (wet dry): 500, 800, 1200, 1500. In clincher tyres, are folding tyres easier to put on and remove than the tyres with wire bead? The reason we don't skip from 100-220 is it is too damn hard and takes too long (if ever) to completely obliterate scratches made with 100 by using just 220. What would be the difference of waiting for a longer cure time before rubbing? You said that you increase the grit 400, 600, 800, 1200. Thanks everyone for the feedback, this is great. Is that sufficient for adhesion? Polish until the compound dries up, then wipe off any excess. Therefore, use the gloss. In fact - I couldn't tell the difference between the three samples of polyurethane when I was done. Fam-Man,You're getting good advice here and everything said, so far, you should heed. Apply a final polish of your choice. Sanding between coats is needed; I usually use 320. I had air scrubbers running, I had windows open for 40 days, carbon filters, etc. Quick Tip! Which was the middle and which was the "last". I suspected something was not right though, so I made sure I witnessed the final Coats of poly. Can I run my 40 Amp Range Stove partially on a 30 Amp generator. I started using a gloss poly last night. Once finished with 1200, I can either go to a finer paper or rubbing compound to get whatever gloss I'm looking for. They are both way too abrasive, and dull the finish a lot. The final Coats were bona Mega. 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And I have been thinning my polyurethane, but I still get a few bubbles. I am assuming that they are hard to avoid entirely. How do we get to know the total mass of an atmosphere? There are multiple "primers" some of which are oil based and others are water borne and others are water based. Unfortunately due to the grain of the old oak top it is not easy to get a consistent look (i.e. The gloss will wear and become dull over time. I recently completed a kitchen table project for my own family. Slate, while harder, is easier to scratch / abrade / polish. Using 3 different grits is great...but WHICH grit level did you START WITH? I never took the floorboards out and that may be the problem that the oil and the water that seeped in, in July, is still offgassing , because it's not cured. In my case they used oil poly urethane and covered it up with water poly without proper cure time for the oil. The most important thing is to get all the bumps out and all the dust off before re-coating. To reveal flaws (bubbles, brush marks, etc.) Thinning the polyurethane makes it flow on more smoothly and reduces brush marks. Remove center of Besta door front? I hadn't heard of it. I have gotten the feel for polyurethane and keeping the brush full, slow steady passes etc. Use a fine cut cleaner by McGuire's or 3M and follow the instructions on the bottle. The real issue is with the installer. At first I thought I sanded off 4 coats of polyurethane with an extra fine sanding sponge, but touching it made me realize it was a very smooth hard surface still in place. You want use that money for your new floors. How To Make Polyurethane Finish Less Shiny Easy Woodworking Plans 03 Nov 2020 ( Watch Anywwere) | How To Make Polyurethane Finish Less Shiny Step-By-Step Blueprints! That’s not to say you should apply each coat thickly. It is harder and clearer than semi- and satin.
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